Evan Sung for The New York Times David Boulay in his new restaurant, brushstroke. ?More photos?Unlike a true stroke of the brush, there was nothing spontaneous about the new Japanese restaurant of David Bouley of the same name. Brushstroke, which served as test dinners for guests of TriBeCa and will be open to the public April 20, took almost a decade to develop. Even the name waited in the wings since 2007.
Last week, Mr. Bouley explained that years ago, when he was on a visit to the Tsuji School in Osaka, the Japan kitchen, he suggests Yoshiki Tsuji, who runs the school, that they could make a whole restaurant. "Mr. Tsuji liked the idea", said Mr. Bouley.
Mr. Bouley is not in the kitchen to brushwork and Mr. Tsuji should not show until the end of the month, while his second, Ryuji Koshiba, has been to approve events. The heads are Isao Yamada, who had a restaurant in the Japan, and Hiroki Murashima, who has taught at the school Tsuji. Several other professors Tsuji are also in the kitchen. They are the ones with shirts and dark ties in jackets of their leader. "Having a partnership with the Tsuji School makes much of this possible", said Mr. Bouley.
For the past few years, he and a rotating team of Tsuji chiefs have worked on revenue Bouley test kitchen in the vicinity. Thousands of recipes have been catalogued and photographed. These experiments have focused on ingredients and leads to an extensive program of seed importing Japanese to cultivate varieties of special products, including aubergines, in California, New York and New England. (For an overview of the food and the Interior, see this slideshow).
"What is grown here is not the same in the Japan, but it is impressive,", said Mr. Yamada. Other ingredients, including preserved yuzu, a few rare as artisan fermented products with soy sauce and tofu takes on the texture of foie gras are imported from the Japan.
Mr. Bouley is adamant that the stroke of the brush is not a restaurant sushi, although a course offers an option of sushi and sushi will probably be available at the map at the bar. But there are other techniques in use, including tempura, searing, smoking and cooking steam; and other ingredients, such as vegetables, seafood and ducks. The restaurant offers several menus at price of $65 to 135 $, each comprising just a few choice value.
"What we are doing is Kyoto, seasonal style;" Ago 20 seasons in Kyoto, "he says. For example, Sakura, cherry blossoms festival, is celebrated today, and flowers decorate the establishment and infuse a light broth served early dinner. A candle in a support sculpted in a daikon radish is also placed before each guest. Number plates and bowls are artisanal pottery; pieces of pottery made by leaders Japanese cooks are also exposed.
Mr. Bouley said that he took the name of brushstroke of a sign on a wall of the building on West Broadway which was to be the location of the restaurant. Too many structural problems in this building led Mr. Bouley to give the restaurant and the name of the space at the corner of Hudson who was Danube and Duane Street.
Honeyed wood, much of it was recovered, dominates the serene interior by Japanese design firm Super potato. The walls of the bar and lounge area are covered with piles of old paperback books, more than 20,000 of them, with their page ends, not their spines, showing, thus making it look like slabs of wood. Large panels of steel recovered from Staten Island are also positioned as the sculpture in a few places. There are approximately 65 seats in the dining room, including 15 in the open kitchen counter, more on 24 in the bar area.
Mr. Bouley, brushstroke is a work in progress. "It will take a year or more research and development of what we have already done to get to the point when we are satisfied with the ingredients," said. That goes not only for products but also for seafood, which, he said, is captured and processed according to exacting specifications.
"We will install tanks of live fish on the ground floor, the restaurant," he said. "No one else does this kind of work on products and techniques." These are the reasons that I am a partner in this restaurant. I am 57, but I would still like to learn and improve. ?
Brushstroke, 30 Hudson Street (Duane Street), dessert dinner every evening except Sundays, with menus from $65. Reservations are now being accepted: (212) 791-3771.
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